advice for buying a used boat

So, you are considering buying a used boat. Purchasing a used boat can be tricky but rewarding if done correctly. How do you find a boat that is adequate for your family and fits your budget? How do you know a good used boat from a bad one?

As a boat dealer representing over eight manufacturers over the last 25 years, we have bought hundreds of use boats and motors, most for trade in. Our best recommendation is to purchase a used boat and outboard motor from a qualified reputable dealer. However, a great number of used boats and outboard motors are sold through individuals. So here is a step by step guide to buying a used boat or outboard motor.

Before you call on a boat or motor, here is a checklist of questions to consider.

	What year is the boat motor and trailer? Don't assume if its a '06 boat that it has a '06 motor.
	How long have you owned this boat?
	Why are you selling the boat? This is a fair question, If the individual is buying a larger boat why isn't he trading it in? Very often its because the owner has an inflated opinion of the value of the boat and is unwilling to trade it for a fair value.
	Does this boat have a hour meter? If the answer is no then forget all the assurances of low hours
	Are you the first owner? If you have an original owner, you can trace the entire mechanical history of the boat.
	Has the boat ever been wrecked or had structure work?
	Has the motor ever had major engine work, and when? You want to know the history of the engine. If the answer is yes find out when and by whom and ask to see the receipts.
	Do you have written service records available for viewing?
	Will we have access to a water source when I come to look at the boat? A hose and water source are needed to properly evaluate the motor.
	Will I have an opportunity to lake test the boat? If you can't drive it don't buy it.
	Will you insure that the batteries are fully charged if I come to check it out?

If you are ready to examine a used boat, you need the following tools to carry out an evaluation.

Start with the engine because some engine problems can be expensive to repair. There are three main areas to check:

First you want assess the general condition of the engine. Look for indications that the lower unit or powerhead has been welded (believe it or not some people actually do weld up powerheads). Spin the prop and watch the prop shaft for wobble. Pull the cowl and look the motor over closely. Powerheads are painted after assembly, look at all the head gaskets. Powerheads are assemblies and if the gaskets aren't painted then its an indication the motor has been apart. This isn't a bad sign if the owner has been upfront about the service history.

You need to run a compression test on the engine. I like to do a compression test after the engine has been run on the hose for a few minutes. While the engine is running with the cowl off check for fuel/water on exhaust leaks. Your compression test should come in with each cylinder checking within +/- 10% of each other.

After you have run your lake test drain a little grease from the lower unit (a few thimbles full) into your catch tray. If water comes out with no grease you have a big problem. If grease comes out looking like coffee double cream, you may have some water in there and you might need seals. If it was pure water you can expect some gear damage and shortened gear life.

Check under the boat and see if it bow to stem for gauges where fiberglass webbing can be seen. If the glass has turned brown or is soggy you could have serious lamination damage. Check all of the lids and seats for tears, cracks, and hinge condition. Walk on the floors and decks. Soft spots mean big trouble and a very expensive repair.

Look for stress cracks in the transom. If they are stress cracks present, trim the motor up and put your weight on it. If those cracks widen or you get any flex in the transom beware. A bad transom is an expensive repair and you don't want any part of this rig. Lastly load test the batteries, at $70-$90 a piece new batteries can put a real crimp in you budget. Also if you're not taking the boat with you write down the type of battery in the boats or mark them. Some people will switch good batteries for weak ones when they trade. It's sad but true.

Never buy a boat without a lake test. First back the boat in on the trailer. Fill and test the live wells. Then pull the boat back out and pull the plug (your checking for leaks). Then relaunch the boat. Check every switch and button, make sure you drive it and then you can really tell if its the boat for you.

No matter how much homework and testing you do before you buy, used boats (new boats as well) will eventually develop problems. If you are a "do it yourselfer", remember our on line PARTS store to purchase discounted new or used parts for your engine. Click on this link http://www.boatengine.com/ & add our site in your favorites for future use. We look forward to assisting you with your boating needs.